Clone Trooper Armor Pepakura Files Star

The title says it all. Anyone knows were to find some pep files of the clone trooper armor?

Here's how to make a low cost costume helmet using cardboard. Helmets are usually one of the hardest and most expensive parts to make for a cool Halloween costume so here's a simple method I use. The methods I describe can be used to make almost any kind of helmet but I'm showing how to make a Star Wars Boba Fett helmet as an example - I have an instructable for the rest of the Boba Fett costume here: The templates provided are used by permission from The Wizard of Flight via the Dented Helmet- the definitive resource-thanks Alan!

The templates are designed to be printed on 8.5' x 11' paper. Adobe Premiere Pro Cs4 Full Crack Fshare. For more great scifi costuming templates check out -there's a lot of fantastic patterns there! You'll need some cardboard sheet- about 1/16 inch thick material works best. Use the kind that looks like paperboard- corrugated cardboard won't work. The kind I used is called newspaper board and it comes in 30'x40' sheets. It is manufactured by Crescent as well as Arches and is sold at craft and picture framing stores. Crescent shows it on their website as Grey News Mounting Board: Some people have reported that also works extremely well.

You'll also need some white glue, sandpaper, a hot glue gun, some, an X-Acto knife and some. Step 2: First Form the Base. For this example I'm going to construct a Boba Fett helmet from the infamous Star Wars character but these techniques can be used to make almost any helmet. I was able to download some Fett helmet templates from the Dented Helmet forum.

The templates are designed to be printed on letter size paper so just open the files with a program like Adobe Acrobat and print them so they fit on letter size paper. The best way to work with the templates is to cut them out and tape the separate sheets together. I then glued them to the cardboard with some rubber cement and then cut out all the pieces with an X-Acto knife.

The first step is to make the form for the helmet base. This is used to help establish the basic helmet shape and is later removed from the helmet. The form is made from templates pages 4, 8, 11 and 12.

The patterns on page 4 and 8 are glued together by cutting a slot in each piece on the center line and then fitting them together. Join the patterns on pages 11 and 12 together and cut them from a single piece of cardboard and then glue that piece to the patterns from pages 4 and 8.

Now make the inner helmet surface. This is done by cutting out the patterns on pages 18, 14,17 and 13, taping them together and cutting them from a single piece of cardboard. This single piece is then wrapped around the helmet base form.

Getting the cardboard slightly damp (use a misting spray bottle) will make it easier to bend. Then I epoxy the joint at the back of the helmet. Next make the helmet outer surface- it is made the same way as the inner surface and is wrapped around and glued to the inner surface. Once the glue is dry cut out the cheekbone sections on the helmet inner surface. Now make the cheekbone sections by gluing the cheekbone template parts together and bending the cardboard and tacking it into place using a glue gun.

I only use the glue gun on the inside of the helmet. Then I smear white glue over all the joints on the outside of the helmet. Step 3: Making the Dome Frame. Now cut some long triangular cardboard wedges. Start by bending these as close to the curve of the dome frame as you can.

Start by gluing the wedges to the frame first with the hot glue gun, then working your way gradually to the middle of each frame section. There will be a lot of trimming and adjusting involved so take your time. Getting the curve of the dome right will make finishing the helmet much easier. After the dome is filled in smear all the seams on the outside of the helmet with white glue. You can see that I've also cut out the opening for the visor at this time.

Now drop that bucket on your head and make sure it fits the way you want it to. Step 5: Final Shaping. Now add any additional details. The 'ears' on the helmet were made from laminated sections of cardboard the were glued together with white glue. They were then cut to shape.

I used a bench top belt sander to help shape them. The 'ears' were then glued to the sides of the helmet with a hot glue gun. The dent on the top of the helmet and the two small triangles on the front were then cut out with an X-acto knife and then a piece of cardboard was glued onto the backside. The dent was then filled in with spackling paste.

The rangefinder was then constructed from folded cardboard sheet and then glued together. There is also a panel that gets glued onto the back of the helmet. This is done by cutting out a rectangular section in the back of the helmet and gluing the panel into the inside of the helmet. Step 7: Painting/finishing. Now coat the entire helmet with some Minwax Polycrylic sealer. This will seal everything and make your helmet much easier to paint as well as help make your helmet water resistant. Then just primer and paint your helmet!

A Boba Fett helmet takes a long time to paint. The visor is just some tinted plastic that is then glued in. I used hot glue but epoxy putty works really well too and is probably stronger. I then added some foam to the inside of the helmet to make it fit my head so it wouldn't flop around. That's it- time to go trick or treating! Depending on the amount of work you want to do, you can A. Buy one from a dealer for about 140 dollars on the clone trooper forums.

Use Pepakura cut out all the parts, then fiberglass/resin them together bondo the whole thing. Sculpt one from clay then cast it and end up with one as produced by method A. If you really want one my recommendation is to contact Evo3 he's a fantastic bucket maker he made mine as seen in my photo. Program Do Nauki Niemieckiego Professor Klaus Chomikuj Muzyka.

The first image is the blank he sent me the second is my paint job. Here are some pics of my helmet. It's made from a child's batting helmet (I cut out most of the padding for it to fit), I cut off the visor and about 1/4 of the back of the helmet (the back is actually the front. I cut the faceplate out of two paper notebooks (the cardboard in the back). I used gorrilla glue to glue it on and duct tape to hold it in place while it was drying. For the crest I cut a couple pieces of some thin board, glued it on, put play-do inside of it, then I used bristles from an old broom to stick in the play-do.

Then I sprayed it down with metallic gold spray paint. I used black paint for the crest.

Created by Kaminoan armorsmiths for the clone troopers of the Galactic Republic, the Clone Trooper Phase I armor consisted of twenty form-fitting plates of lightweight plastoid-alloy composite. Those plates were sealed to a black temperature control bodysuit via magnatomic gription panels. The bodysuit was also pressurized, offering temporary protection against the vacuum of space. “We’re brothers, don’t shoot!” Its design was reminiscent of the Mandalorian armor, including the helmet with a distinctive T-shaped visor. Despite its advantages, the Phase I armor proved uncomfortable for the troopers to fit in, which was due to the Kaminoans’ unfamiliarity with human ergonomics. The armorsmiths of Kamino designed Phase I armor after the Mandalorian armor worn by the clone soldiers’ template, the bounty hunter Jango Fett. It was introduced at the same time as the first batch of clone troopers, which were deployed at the Battle of Geonosis. Sometime prior to the Battle of Mon Cala, it was replaced by Phase II clone trooper armor, which was more comfortable and capable of supporting more specialized equipment.

The armor was heavy, uncomfortable, and not very well liked by clone troopers. Hence it being often referred to by non-clone GAR personnel as a “body bucket”. Its inconvenience was due to the Kaminoans’ lack of knowledge of Human anatomy.

It did, however, have coolant systems to prevent overheating, and also included enhanced breathing filters inside the T-visor. The armor could take some modular attachments, like a bacta pack for a medic or small flamethrower for Advanced Recon Commandos. The armor suit also resisted vacuum environments, allowing the trooper to continue to fight outside of spacecraft for a short time (though recovery was needed). Author: Unkown.